Many of us remember well the small corridors, the so-called waiting rooms, which we often met in the homes of our grandparents. You go into a house or a temporary building, and immediately you get into a small room, just a couple of square meters in area, where you slip out and leave outerwear. And only then the corridor and the rooms of the house. This room and always worked as an air cutter, and it was cold air in winter.
Opening the door from the street, we let in the cold air only in this small room, which is a little warm from the house. Accordingly, the air itself is no longer from the street, cold and frosty, but from the corridor itself, mixed and warmed up, into the house itself or another building. If there is no such room in the house, in the summer kitchen, in the dormitory, or even in the cabin, you can always build it around the porch. This is easy, especially for regular readers of DachaDecor.ru, who always follow the current articles of the site.
So, how to sheathe a porch to arrange cutting off cold air from the street, and what material for this to choose? Today, everything is gradually to every detail, because in a warm house we do not want to let the cold!
Porch trim materials
If the porch is completely open, then there is nothing terrible in this, since the room constructed around it is built fairly quickly and with minimal investment. But it is necessary to decide on the materials in advance, since each construction material (which we, by the way, have discussed in detail in this article), has its own technical characteristics and parameters.
We also recommend that you read: How to build a shed The roof over the porchWarming the cottageHow to build a country house from containers
We decided to create a simple but durable and reliable construction, and therefore we will go along the classical path:
- Profile pipe and corner for the main frame of the porch trim;
- Cement, sand and gravel for the foundation of the frame;
- Profiled sheet for plating outside;
- Polyfoam as a heater;
- Polyurethane foam for blowing and sealing joints;
- OSB plate for internal lining of the structure;
- Decoration materials - plastic slats, guides and other;
- Decking on the roof, the visor itself;
- Doors for installation of an additional entrance, cutting off the heat output;
The tool for covering the porch
As usual, we will recommend reading the article about the power tool for the dacha, since we collected the most necessary things there and talked about its purpose. But if in more detail about this process, the following will be needed:
- Special drill for the production of holes in the ground for the installation of the frame;
- Welding machine for mounting the frame and its assembly, well, or grinder and drill, with the help of which the metal can be cut and twisted bolts;
- Metal shears for trimming profiled sheet;
- Screwdriver for covering the frame materials from both sides;
- A hammer, several screwdrivers, pliers, in short, standard participants of any construction.
Carefully study your own design of the construction for the trim and insulation of the porch, as well as think about the materials and tools. We will say at once that even in our lists we did not take into account high-quality doors to the entrance, a wooden bar to strengthen the doorway and install the door, sealant to seal the seams on the visor, but it is quite possible that many other materials. We did this specifically so that you learn how to plan correctly and not go to the procurement several times.
Calculate everything in advance, it is very important in any job !!!
Porch trim step by step
To accomplish the task, we need to think everything over to the smallest detail, because to build a structure and sheathe it with insulation, and then find out that drafts continue to walk, not particularly in our interests. Therefore, we set goals and are not in a hurry, but we work in a measured way. You can learn how to build a porch for the house.
We can not know the parameters of your porch, as well as its protective structure, which we will build, and therefore we work by a simple example, but without exact dimensions. Scrupulous calculations would be needed if we built the foundation for the building or the foundation for roofing materials, which you can read about here. Today we have a light metal construction that will not load anything.
We dig pits for frame installation
We need 4 pits, vertical and deep, to install the profile tubes, on which the whole frame will be supported. Here you can work approximately the same way as when installing fence pillars, which we recommend to read here. But you can go in another, albeit in a more complicated way - use a shovel.
Choosing a way to extract the earth at the points where we need to install the bases, we dig holes with a diameter of 25-30 cm and a depth of 60-70 cm. Two such we need to be made at the outer corners of the porch, two between them (in this opening between the pipes install doors, and therefore more closely with the size). We install two more installation pipes on the wall, along the near corners of the porch to the house, and therefore we do not need to drill under them.
Foundation and installation of the frame base
We do not need a strip foundation, pile or something else, used for the construction of larger structures. It is enough to fix the bases of the framework for the covering of the porch in the pits that we dug.
To do this, we make a standard pillow on the bottom of the pits, sand with gravel, install the pipe in the pit, align it and fix it. Now, little by little we fall asleep fine gravel and spill it with liquid cement with sand - a usual mixture. Need to spill 5-10 cm at a time, constantly aligning the pipe and ramming the gravel in the solution. Thus, having spent on installation of one main pipe of only 10-15 minutes, you receive the necessary rigidity and the basis exposed on level. After a few days, the solution dries well and will set a high reliability of the installation.
At the same stage, you can take care of the durability of the base under the skin - to provide reliable protection to the profile pipe, which goes underground. To do this, it is required to coat with grease or oil testing, and tightly tighten the upper part with roofing material or similar material.
Thus, all four bases are established, which need to be fixed well for several days so that they do not move, having lost the level. While the foundation poured under the bases dries, you can install the pipes on the walls of the building. They should be opposite the first two, tightly pressed against the threshold and the wall, or even mounted on bricks, cinder blocks, another hard base.
Installation can be made on dowels or anchor bolts. 3-4 good fastenings are enough for each pipe.
To transform our design into a single whole, it is necessary to tie it up - to set stiffening ribs, as well as the foundation for the roof, which will completely repeat the walls. It will be almost a sandwich panel, consisting of corrugated, insulation inside and inner lining.
A bundle of construction occurs by installing the profile pipe horizontally between the vertical pipes of the base, which we have six in the construction. You can work as a welding machine or a drill, making holes in the pipes for bolting, but it is worth remembering that for the convenience of future work, equal distances are required between the stiffeners. We decided to warm up with foam plastic, which means that the distance between them should be 50 cm (most often, foam is sold with plates of 50x100 cm).
There is also an additional requirement - ligation vrazbezhku. That is, the ribs installed in two adjacent cells between the base pipes must be at different heights. Say, the first edge is at a height of 50 cm from the floor, the second at 100 cm, the third at 150 cm, and so on (but with respect to the cells at 50 cm and taking into account the thickness of the pipe). In another, neighboring cell, the same, but in a run-up, for example, 25 cm, 75 cm, 125 cm. This will give more strength to the frame!
Do not forget to immediately make and crate for the roof, which should be at a slight angle. Here the structure can be generally light, but it cannot be denied in strength, since outside it can be loaded with snow in the cold winter.
Also, at the end of work with the frame, take care of the installation of the timber to strengthen the doorway, and perhaps immediately install the doorframe to hide its seams junction outside and inside skin.
It is very important to protect the entire frame from possible atmospheric exposure. To do this, the metal must be primed and coated with at least an inexpensive but protective paint. You can learn how to make a visor over the porch.
External facing of a porch professional leaf
Now you should select a profiled sheet. You can stop at the most popular, for example, in 0.5 mm or 0.7 mm and a perish pattern of 15 mm. Accordingly, this will be the height (thickness of the bend of the material). More and not necessary, because then it will be very inconvenient to work with insulation.
Sheathing of the frame with a professional sheet occurs outside, with preliminary cutting and marking of the installation.
Do not forget that this material does not fit end-to-end, but overlaps, which means that the material will need a little more than just the area of the sheathed walls of the frame.
The installation starts from the wall, where the material ends on it and rests against it. Tightly pressing the sheet against the wall and frame, setting it on a level, fasten the material of the porch trim to the frame, on the screws on the metal. They will easily take a thin-walled profile tube, and fix the material qualitatively and reliably.
We recommend not to feel sorry for the screws and mount so that in the future there are no gaps, that is, about every 20 cm.
Consistently securing profiled on the walls of the frame, you can immediately proceed to the roof plating.
It is not difficult, because a part of one sheet will go here, or if the roof is large due to the serious area of the porch, a maximum of a couple of pieces of corrugated board. The same screws, screwdriver, half an hour of work, and everything is fixed. The only thing, do not forget about the correct bias.
The slope of the roof can be done in any convenient direction, the main thing is that the water does not stagnate on the visor and leave the roof. Perhaps the bias will even be ahead. But you should not worry, the water will not water you at the entrance, because you can always install additional drains, the use of which we recommend to read the thematic material here.
Warming and sealing from the inside
When the cladding is finished, you get a small corridor around the house, which you only need to make warm. To do this, we already have everything - foam, sealants and doors.
We start with foam. It is advisable to take a material with a thickness of 5 cm and a density of 25. This will be enough to sheathe a porch of a country house at high quality. The foam is cut to the size of the finished cells, and tightly embedded inside, resting on the outer sheathing - profiled. But there is one point that should be taken into account - between the materials there can be tiny slits through which not only cold but also drafts will pass.
Therefore, we recommend to lay the foam on the mounting foam. There are several advantages in this:
- The foam will work as a very high-quality glue and practically tightly connect the materials - foam, carcass and skin;
- It will close all the cracks and significantly reduce heat loss;
- The connection of the foam with the professional sheet assembly foam will give a tight connection, due to which the skin material will not creak and clap, as sometimes happens after improper installation (for example, during strong winds or during sudden temperature changes, when the professional sheet changes parameters due to heating and cooling) .
Putting all the foam in the frame on the foam, we will slightly increase costs, as we spend a few balloons of this material. But agree that it is better to do well once, than every few years to spend money on repairs, to finish something.
We conduct all similar processes with the roof, insulate it and seal it. But the external tightness is also important here, so that moisture does not get into the room, and even our “insulation cake”.
Therefore, all the cracks outside are laid with thin strips of sealant, sealing the seams. About sealants, their selection and application, we recommend reading here ... a lot of useful information.
How to insulate walls (video)
It is easy to work with the inner lining, since we already overlapped with the repair and insulation of the dacha at home, which we recommend to recall with the help of this article, and also studied the finishing materials for the dacha (read here). But we already have material that is great for plating - this is an OSB plate that does not deform, serves for decades, is not afraid of moisture, is easily cut to fit any shape, and looks great, especially for such a room.
Before installing the slabs on the walls, they must be laid out and cut, as well as to prepare the decor on the cuts and corners. Further, it is necessary to apply a film on the frame of the profile pipe in order to prevent the ingress of moisture inside. This can be done with the participation of double-sided tape, which also glue all the joints.
Now, on the frame we wind a thin rail, the thickness of which will help create an air gap, and the material itself will become the basis for the casing. This can be a 1x2 cm or 1x3 cm lath, depending on your personal requirements and on the thickness of the OSB, which is enough for 6 mm.
This crate is screwed onto the frame with the same metal screws with which we worked outside, and it additionally presses and fixes the polyethylene film. Everything, it remains only to apply the plates to the frame, install the starting plastic strips, and, working with a screwdriver and small self-tapping screws, complete the work.
We still have only the installation of doors, which should already be selected in size. These can be new and high-quality metal doors, or old ones taken from the main entrance. Chinese doors, thin sheet metal, wooden - all the same, the main thing is to make a high-quality installation and put a reliable lock. But here it is necessary to pay attention to one more thing - if the doors are old or just thin metal, they must be insulated. We already wrote about this earlier, and you can always read the thematic article here.
You have the right to change a lot in your personal project, as you yourself regulate the level of thermal insulation, the cost of an extension to the country house, design, interior decor. Here you can use a different plating material, both internal and external, heat insulation, install windows or even insulate the porch itself by applying foam polystyrene plates, and therefore we are waiting for your comments on the article and questions that can always be left in this category.