Article from the rubric "Calendar of gardener's and gardener's works"
In order for trees and berry bushes to plant more flower buds for the harvest of the next year, they need to be well worked out in August: watering in a timely manner, phosphorus-potash fertilizing, protect from pests.
Summer ends and the garden is added
Your garden: work of the month.
In August, fruit trees lay the next year's harvest. At this time, they need fertilizer phosphorus and potassium. So, in the middle of August, the stone trees are fed as follows.
For cherries, apricots, plums - 2 tbsp. spoons of double superphosphate, 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate in a bucket of water. Under each tree, 4 buckets of such a solution are poured out on the crown's projection and a liter jar of ash is brought over the wet soil.
On cherries, cherries, and ducks at the end of summer, leaf spots and coccomycosis may develop, in which most of the leaves turn yellow and fall off. It is possible to carry out treatment with a 1% Bordeaux mixture or abig-peak.
What work should be done with apple trees
If there are many Californian scale insects on apples (red dots on fruits), spray fufanon nova (13 ml per 10 l of water) in early August. Do not leave your windfall under the trees for the night, collect it regularly, otherwise the caterpillars will leave the fruit and spread out on the trees.
Under the apple tree, pear, you can make the autumn complex fertilizer.
An effective fertilizer is the AVA fertilizer. It is made every three years in the groove around the perimeter of the crown: 3 tbsp. spoons for apple, 2.5 st. spoons for pear.
Bring in a dry form to a depth of 5-8 cm and sprinkled with earth on top. It is absorbed gradually over the course of three years and is not carried away by water, or buried in the soil.
Hot summer (including August) contributes to the formation of the third generation of the moth, dangerous for late apple varieties.
Against it, trees can be sprayed with biologics - lepidotsidom or bitoksibatsillinu repeat in 10-14 days. Their waiting period is 5 days. If you apply a biological treatment of flyerms, one treatment is enough, the waiting period is 2 days.
All three drugs are also effective against a complex of other pests, including aphids on red currants.
Instead of biological products in August, you can use fufanon-nova and other chemical insecticides.
In early August, sow mustard, preferably white, under the pear and apple trees. After 1.5-2 months, it can be buried in the ground. This is a good organic fertilizer, in addition, mustard will rid the soil of diseases and pests. Weave 500 grams per hundred square meters. mustard seed.
What to do with strawberries
First of all, clean the fruit-bearing plantation from weeds, water, loosen the soil, feed the plants. In early August, add 5-10 g per square. m of urea, at the end of the month - 10-15 g of superphosphate and 5-10 g of potassium sulfate.
This is necessary for growing foliage, bookmark fruit buds. Strawberries should go to wintering stronger.
Observe the condition of the plants. If spots appear on the leaves or strawberry mite, treat them with pesticides: fufanon-nova + abigak-pik.
In late August, plant strawberries. Use the strongest sockets on your mustache - first and second All newly planted strawberry sockets water in the morning or evening every other day and shade them from sunlight.
Remove 4-year single-strawberry bushes. Before planting, the roots of plants are immersed for 1-2 hours in a solution of phytosporin (2-3 g per liter of water), potassium humate.
The first feeding of strawberries is carried out two weeks after planting with urea - 20 g + 30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potash fertilizer per square meter. m. This dressing is necessary for increasing the leaf mass and for future fruiting.
With a weak resumption and development of the leaf apparatus, feed them with a complex fertilizer - diammophotic or azophotic.
At the same time, destroy weeds and whiskers.
Do not forget about raspberries
Raspberries are fed with double superphosphate (1 tbsp) + 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate, diluted in 10 liters of water, and watered with 1 liter under each bush or 1 linear meter of belt planting.
After cutting off the stemmed stalks, raspberries are sprayed with zircon (dosage is on the package). Also at the end of the summer black and red currants are fed to enhance immunity and increase resistance to diseases.
Inspect the annual raspberry shoots. Cut to the base affected stem gallfly (swelling on the shoots) and burn them. Remove excess shoots. Leave 2-4 shoots per bush.
Against the spider mite on raspberries (on the upper side, leaves are made pale, light, with small white spots, on the lower side - spider webs), after removing the leaves of the fufanon-nova, removed by the mite.
The raspberries that grow out of fruit must be thinned out.
Against the spots of the shoots and leaves of raspberry (anthracnose, ulcer spot and purple spot), after pruning and removing the seedlings from the shoots, remove the diseased annual shoots and spray the plants with 1% Bordeaux liquid or its substitutes.
Timely discard and burn the virus-affected (mosaic, yellow raspberry, curly) shoots. Spray raspberry bushes when aphids appear fufanon nova, because viruses are transmitted by aphids.
Keep the soil in the raspberry pan wet, because raspberry roots are superficial.
Tops of young shoots left for the next year's harvest, pinch. Water and feed organics with phosphate-potassium fertilizers.
Read more about raspberries in the article: "Raspberries in autumn."
Preparing for the autumn planting
In August, pits should be prepared for planting trees in the second decade of October and berry bushes at the end of September.
On loamy soil, the diameter of the pit should be 120 cm, depth - 60 cm, 40 of them are a hole and 20 - loosened (fertile soil layer, then fertilizers mixed with soil.)
For berry bushes, the diameter of the pit is 70 cm, the depth is 50 cm (30 is a hole, 20 is a loosened layer).
Under the raspberries do not dig a hole, but loosen the soil by 1.5 bayonet shovels.
Under tree planting, on average, rotted manure is brought into the pit - 2-3 buckets (depending on the soil) or compost - 4-5 buckets, superphosphate - 0.5 kg, wood ash - 0.5 kg. Under shrubs, these rates are halved.
Under currants increase the amount of ash to 0.8 kg. Mineral fertilizers poured to the bottom pits, and organic matter - closer to the roots and must be mixed with the soil.
Spend summer pruning
To maintain the small size of the crown of fruit-bearing trees, prune.
To stop the growth of strong annual growths 40-50 cm long and more, especially when young trees are formed, pinings are made in the middle of August - pinching of the tips of the shoots with 2-3 upper leaves, leaving at least 4-5 leaves.
Cut out all vertical shoots at the top of the crown. Do not cut the lower part of the crown.
Currants and gooseberries
In the currants and gooseberries can be done lightening pruning.
Gooseberry. Immediately after harvesting, remove the old branches that spawn, as well as excess, thickening shoots.
This pruning can continue throughout autumn, before the onset of severe frosts. And in the spring to make detailed pruning.
Red currant. In early August, pinch one-year shoots of the current year. As a result, many flower buds are formed by autumn. Biennial branches begin to bear fruit, the berries increase in size.
It is time to check the status of the storage facilities and prepare them for laying the new crop. Thoroughly clean the premises of debris, ventilate well, dry, whiten with slaked lime (1.5-2 kg of lime per 10 liters of water) with the addition of copper sulfate (from 150-200 g to 500 g). Dry the rooms again. If necessary, repair the packaging or purchase a new one.
What you need to do in the garden in August
Your garden: work of the month.
August - the height of the vegetable pores. The lion's share of time is taken away by the harvesting and processing of the harvest, but it is also necessary to find the strength and time to work with beds.
Removed shallots, onions, which we grew from sevka, dug out garlic, and some gardeners have already removed the early carrots and folded in bags, stored in the refrigerator. It is time to free the areas where kohlrabi were grown, early varieties of cauliflower.
If the beds in previous seasons were sown with green mans or filled with humus, compost, you can get a second crop from them, for example, sow:
- Margilan radish
If the soil has not improved for a long time, we will give it a rest: we will sow the siderats. It is better to refuse mustard during the hot season: it will attract cruciferous pests. We will opt for cereal-bean mixture (oats or barley + peas or soybeans, chickpeas, etc.), phacelia.
Garden bed sown in August rye.
We will sow rye areas that will be freed from the harvest later, because we dig it in the spring. Even in the garden, selected for planting garlic, siderata will still have time to grow. Dig them in late September - early October.
Beds of re-sowing
Sowing daikon, Margilan radish, kohlrabi or Peking cabbage, cover the beds with non-woven material to preserve moisture in the soil before seed germination and protect seedlings that will appear in a few days from cruciferous pests.
If there is no cruciferous flea on the plot, the bugs are required. If the soil on the beds sown with daikon, radish or kohlrabi, was filled before sowing, it is possible not to feed.
If organic and mineral fertilizers are not applied, in the stages of the three true leaves of the plant, you can feed them with complex mineral fertilizer, and mulch the rows between the compost so that it is easier to keep the soil moist and loose.
In August, it is still hot and mulching will help the plants to safely endure high temperatures. Thin non-woven material, which covered the beds before sowing, you can not remove: it will continue to protect plants from pests, the soil - from draining.
It is advisable to powder the open beds immediately after the emergence of shoots with wood ash: this is both protection from pests and fertilizing.
We continue to care for the plants in the garden. Increased humidity is necessary for the development of fungal diseases, but there are almost always conditions for bacterial diseases.
Tomatoes may show bacterial blotch. In this disease, small superficial spots of irregular shape develop on leaves, petioles, and stem.
This is what bacterial spotting looks like.
On green fruits appear watery spots, bounded by a halo. Spots gradually grow, press, crack. Mature fruit disease is not affected.
When the first symptoms of the disease appear, tomatoes are treated with phytolavin (20 ml per 10 l of water). After 15 days, the treatment is repeated. There is no waiting time for the drug. It is better to refrain from treatments with copper-containing drugs: they have a long waiting period, and in August the crop ripens even on seedless tomatoes.
Stolbur - a disease of the fruits of tomatoes
In hot weather, tomatoes can be expected to exhibit stolbur, a disease that makes the fruit unsuitable for fresh consumption and processing. Fruits of plants affected by stolbur, when ripe, acquire an uneven color. Inside they have white hard streaks. There is no taste.
A disease carrier is considered to be a cicada, which is especially active in the middle of a hot, dry summer. We add about a month to the incubation period and it turns out that the disease can be expected in August.
In the “risk zone”, first of all, there are summer cottages adjacent to the virgin or fallow steppes. There are especially a lot of tsikadok.
Tomatoes affected by stolbur.
Bushes with signs of stolbur (chlorotic upper leaves of violet hue, deformed flowers with overgrown sepals, green corolla, pistils, stamens) are carefully removed, taking care not to hook on the neighboring plants, and burn them.
Leaving them in the garden has no economic sense, and for healthy plants they are dangerous.
What problems may arise with cucumbers
On cucumbers in August the leaves often turn yellow - the result of the “activity” of ticks and thrips. Spraying fitoherm will help against these pests, as well as aphids. They are repeated ten days later. Before processing, they collect all the fruits, even the smallest, and resume picking three days after spraying.
In August, powdery mildew may develop on the aging plants of the pumpkin family (cucumbers, squash, pumpkin). It is better to cut off the first leaves with powdery spots, leaving no stumps.
Keeping the development of the disease will help regular (after 7-10 days spraying of plants with biological fungicides:
These drugs do not have a waiting period, i.e., it is possible to harvest from the treated plants the next day after treatment.
Mealy dew on the leaves of cucumbers.
Sulfuric preparations help against powdery mildew, but they are used with great care, since they have a depressing effect on pumpkin cultures. For example, a tiovit jet for processing cucumbers is used at the rate of 20-30 g per 10 liters of water. The waiting time for this drug is 1 day.
If cucumbers are eaten by aphids, you will be interested in the article: "How to get rid of aphids on cucumbers and tomatoes during fruiting."
In August, the cucumbers no longer look fresh: the leaves were roughened and brightened. Gathering the harvest, we increasingly find fruits of irregular shape ("hooks", "carrots", "pears). Cucumbers do not have enough food to produce high-quality crops, so we will feed them.
Leaves moistened and bottom and top. Ten days later we repeat the procedure. The leaves after such procedures should be dark green.
Watch the cabbage
Closely monitor the cabbage. The quality of her heads can be harmful for pests. Against a complex of gnawing pests, late varieties are treated every 7-8 days with biological insecticides (lepidocide).
Nitrogen from fertilizing in August exclude, so as not to contribute to the accumulation of nitrates. But the potassium cabbage at this time only benefit (wood ash or potassium magnesia, potassium sulfate).
July planting potatoes, which are beginning to grow vegetative mass, can be fed with infusion of green grass (0.5 liters per bucket of water). The next feeding is during the budding period.
Of great importance in the prevention of disease is the care of plants. Abundant watering, regular dressing will not work if the surface of the soil on the beds is constantly “pulled down” by a dense crust.
In compacted soil, air exchange ceases, beneficial microorganisms that help plants absorb nutrients freeze.
The lack of regular loosening and mulching on poor soils is especially negative. Naturally, the infection on plants growing in compacted soil is manifested earlier and more actively.
Stocking onions and garlic
We dug up garlic in July. In August, it's time to check the heads: cut dried roots, tops. We extract garlic bulbs from inflorescences, sort them in order to plant on a separate bed in October.
Separately, we fold the single-teeth grown from bulbous beads in order to land on an individual bed in the fall. It should be planted with one-teeth and more rational (we do not use garlic for sale), and it is safer (the probability of infection in one-teeth is less than that of cloves from product heads).
Preparing for harvesting onions grown from seeds. He is ready to be cleaned at different times. It depends on fertilizing, irrigation, and whether there were any diseases or pests on it. If the bulbs are formed, the feather begins to turn yellow and go to bed, stop watering, creating conditions for ripening.
In the onion ready for harvesting, the neck becomes thinner, dries out, and the bulbs take on the characteristic color of the variety. A ripe onion is easily pulled out by hand.
In August, it's time to dig onions.
If the leaf tops breaks and the bulbs remain in the ground, it is better to refuse this method of harvesting and to undermine the onion with a shovel. Dug onions immediately lay out to dry in the fresh air, but in a shaded place. Under the direct rays of our hot sun, the bulbs can get burned and start to deteriorate.
In the summer and in the shade, there is enough heat for the onions to dry thoroughly and to be well kept in winter. In dried onions, you can trim the tops, leaving a small neck (2-3 cm), or you can tie it into braids and hang it somewhere on the cottage veranda.
Cucumbers pick small, tomatoes - ripe
In time we harvest. Cucumbers, if you practice canning pickles, even tear twice a day. For salads, you can clean up after a day. But the more “overgrown” on the lashes, the more medically the ovaries develop.
Tomatoes are recommended by experts to harvest not fully ripe, so that the fruits remaining on the bushes ripen more quickly. But do not rush to use this recommendation: tomatoes that have ripened on the garden are tastier than those that turned red in the box or basket.
And do not put the tomatoes in the refrigerator: they will immediately lose their real taste.
The fruits of the vegetable pepper are cut in the stage of technical ripeness: they have already grown, but have not yet acquired the color characteristic of the variety. You will wait for staining, lose in yield.
It's time to clean the eggplants.
Cut the eggplants until they have lost their shine. Fruits with a dull pale skin are rich in seeds, but not taste.
Bushes of early pepper, eggplants, so that the fruits do not become shallow, can be fed with organic extract (green grass, mullein - 0.5 l per 10 l of water) or complex fertilizer (Art. Spoon on a bucket of water, consumption - for 10 plants).
Late sowing carrots and beets (for winter storage) can be supplemented with potassium (st. Spoon of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water, consumption per square meter).
Works of flower growers in August
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